I’ve just returned to the office from 3 weeks in Vosne Romanée
chez Sylvain Cathiard et Fils, working with Sébastien Cathiard on the 2013
harvest.
2013 won’t go down as an easy vintage for the vignerons of
the Cote D’Or: there was massive hail damage just south of Beaune, and
significant rot pressure across the region as the weather turned just before
picking. With extremely carefully sorting in the vineyard and cuverie, however,
the fruit that was brought in at Cathiard was good quality, if somewhat depleted (down
significantly on even 2012). People will no doubt talk about 2013 as being a
high acid vintage, and that indeed it is. But in a crucial way it differs from
the other recent vintage of that description – 2008 – with which it will be
compared. Whereas in 2008 the pHs were extremely low (between 3.05-3.15), in
2013, the pHs have come in at an extremely balanced level (between 3.15-3.31)
with relatively high total acidity (5.5+). This is a promising start for the
young vintage.
Unfortunately I had to leave just as the fermentations were
starting to get into full swing, having done rémontage once and then twice daily with Sébastien
during the 7-10 day cold maceration. Colour extraction was very good in the
early stages, and all the cuves looked and smelled great. I've been reliably informed all fermentations are now well under way and pigéage has begun in earnest.
All in all, it was a complete pleasure to work at the
domaine. It is the cleanest, most precise, most attention-detailed, most carefully
handled work I’ve ever experienced. Although my 6th harvest working
in a cuverie I’m mindful of how much more there is to learn. I look forward to
number 7 next year (and can't wait to taste '13 in barrel)
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| Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Malconsorts just before harvest |
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| Sorting table action |
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| Sébastien stumping us with blind tastings |
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| Rémontage during cold maceration |
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| Séb with his RSV Grand Cru barrels |
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| Quite some lunch at Ma Cuisine in Beaune... |
By Catherine Petrie
